13th – 19th Day of Fly Fishing; April 30th – May 6th; Ashton, ID; Cameron, MT; Divide, MT; Craig, MT; Melrose, MT; Tetonia, ID
After years of telling the Amigos how great the Missouri was as a dry fly fishery, it was time to include it in this “Epic Safari”. The only problem to solve was the distance from our home base in Victor. So, what made sense was finding good stops along the way in both directions. It turns out that Dillon was the halfway point and of course Dillon is close to multiple “gold medal” rivers. When the itinerary was complete, we had seven days of Epic fishing to look forward to and by the time the Amigos had returned to the airport, we had logged 1,500 miles on the old Chevy Colorado!
Trip Itinerary:
Day 1 – Henry’s Fork Float
Day 2 – Madison River Float
Day 3 – Big Hole Float
Day 4 and 5 – Missouri River Float
Day 6 – Big Hole Float
Day 7 – Teton River Float
To those who know the region well, this is nothing less than an Epic itinerary. Scheduled for the last days of April through the 6th of May, the timing was set to nail the tail end of the BWO hatch and the beginning of the caddis hatch. For this Epic fishing safari, dry fly fishing was clearly the intent. However, as you shall learn as we dig into the specifics, the bugs had other plans.
Day 1 – Henry’s Fork, Ashton, ID
Heading out, the weather was cool and wind was in the forecast. Only three weeks prior, I had a great day on the Henry’s Fork with a BWO hatch starting around 12:30pm. So this day, we decided to get on the water around 11:30am in anticipation. We started fishing streamers and soft hackles, working some of the flats near the boat launch. We weren’t in the only boat looking for risers. Other boats were parked and waiting as well. Indicator nymphing was probably a better idea, because what we were doing clearly wasn’t working.
As we worked our way toward the take out, it was clear that the hatch we were counting on was not going to materialize. However, on river right we did begin to see rises. They were all small fish, but what the heck. Mel began to work them and was able to fool a few. I decided to wade downstream looking for more action, and I found a few, including a couple of bigger fish. One of them broke me off and the other became unbuttoned. It was one of those days but we all caught a few, and Mel ended up with eight!
Day 1 got us off to a slow start. Back at the cabin in Victor, we needed to organize food and gear for 5 days on the road, starting tomorrow.
Day 2 – Madison River, Cameron,MT
So the trip did get off to a slow start. On day two we started off at Kelly Galloup’s place, the Slide Inn. Kelly wasn’t there but we got the scoop. Nymphing was the prefered fishing method – a Pat’s rubberlegs and a baetis pattern on an indicator rig. Our plan really was to fish streamers. The flows were really low, so low in fact that they could only recommend one section of the river to float – Lyon’s Bridge to Palisades. It was a bit of a crazy day for me as I was hitting rocks right off the ramp and that trend would continue all day as rocks were showing everywhere! Normally, I choose my path based upon where I think the fish are. On this day, my path was dictated to me by the rock gardens, one after the next. It was all I could do to find a safe path through all of the obstacles. On any day that you float and there are more rafts than drift boats on the water, you know what you are in for as a drift boat captain.
It wasn’t all bad though. We had a sunny day with manageable winds and it was actually very pleasant. I did have to make quite a lot of stops though, as the rowing was a lot of work and also mentally stressful. Reid and Mel did catch a few. Reid below with a nice rainbow.
After we took out, we had a very scenic drive to Dillon, via Ennis, through a couple of scenic western towns. The highlight of the evening after we arrived in Dillon, was dinner at The Den. It was Friday night and the place was packed. It was impossible to find a place to park, as we had the drift boat in tow. So, we decided to check-in at our motel and drop the boat there and get cleaned up a bit before heading bcak to the Den. This time, because it was later, we not only found parking right in front, we also were seated immediately. Anyway, we all felt that the food was great and the atmosphere was kind of “modern hunting lodge”, filled with nice people and families.
Day 3 – Big Hole River, Divide to Melrose, MT
It has been close to 10 years since I have floated the Big Hole. The memories of the river and the float have always stuck in my mind. In order to make this trip a truly EPIC fly fishing safari, the Big Hole needed to be included. We stayed at the Angler’s Inn in Dillon and really enjoyed the property. In the morning the cafe at the Inn was open and coffee and a breakfast burrito was on the agenda. Reid and Mel opted for the breakfast sandwich, possibly a better choice as the burrito was massive and I couldn’t finish it.
After breakfast, we saddled up the boat and headed for the Big Hole in Divide, MT. The weather had turned a bit cooler but it was still nice. There was a line of rafts ahead of us at the launch and I was haunted with visions of rocks in our path. This was not to be the case though as the flows were excellent! It was a Saturday and although there were a few guides, there were a lots of locals and families too.
The plan was to fish streamers as once again there were bugs in the air but not on the water. We did have an active hatch of March Browns at one point, but not enough of them on the water to trigger any top water action. The streamer bite took awhile to figure out. We had partly cloudy skies most of the day and as it turns out, white and yellow were the best colors. As is always true when streamer fishing, you will get two or three follows and swipes for every solid strike. Mel was a bit frustrated as he missed a few big fish that decided to swipe and not strike at his fly. The water was a bit off color, but he could see fish following his fly. Below, Reid and Mel hold browns that decided to eat the streamer.
This section of the river was breathtaking. Beautiful scenery and lots of wildlife!
We ended the day in Melrose and once we had the boat back on the trailer, we headed to I15 and made the long trek up to Craig. Because the MIssouri is a bit out of the way and also in my mind it was the highlight of the trip, the plan was to spend two nights in Craig and fish the Missouri two days in a row. Also, we treated ourselves to a really nice cabin that was close to the river. We also thought ahead and brought a dinner with us so we did not have to leave the place once we arrived. The place was nearly new and really well equipped so even though it was a tad pricey, we found it to be well worth it. It also had a washer driver which was great so we could have clean fishing clothes for the remainder of the trip.
Day 4 – the MIssouri River, Craig, MT
It had been 12 years since I discovered the MIssouri River, which was one of our venues in guide school. I immediately fell in love with it then was also able to return once with my son about 10 years ago. So it was a big deal for me to bring the Amigos here! I had been talking about it and was happy that we were able to pull it off. The cabin was only 2 miles from Craig via the frontage road. Coincidentally, it was right next to the house we stayed in during guide school, so it really seemed familiar!
As we pulled into Craig, population 47, we parked right in front of my favorite fly shop, Cross Currents. The people there were not only friendly, but extremely helpful. We made the decision to float the top section putting in up near Holter dam at the Wolf Creek ramp. We told the guys in the shop that we wanted to catch a hatch and in order to do so, they suggested we park the boat near the cabin, take a rest and later finish the float closer to dark, when hatches were more likely.
At the Wolf Creek ramp, it was fairly busy, so we took our time preparing the boat, while Reid and Mel rigged nymph rigs and streamer rods. The guys in the were strongly suggesting nymph rigs as the best way to get fish into the boat, so we took that advice! Once we were underway, I was a little out of sorts. Boats around us were catching fish, but I had no idea where the feeding lanes were, so a few times, I just posted up and watched the guides. There is structure on the MIssouri, but it is hard to spot from above. The long runs show a very consistent surface from above, so you had to have local knowledge of where the drop offs and trenches were located. But, I did not feel any shame watching the guides and following their lines.
Anyway, the strategy paid off. Both Reid and Mel stuck fish with the nymph rigs. Most fish were in that 16-18″ range and they were taking the small baetis patterns in 16 and 18. It just so happened that the Fish of the Trip (FOT) was landed by Reid and incidentally, Mel captured the fight on video. (See below) A beautiful 20″ rainbow!
As the day pressed on, we did make the stop at the cabin and rested a bit. Perhaps it was me being nervous about finishing the float as the light got low, but we returned to the boat with plans to find rising fish. Unfortunately, we did not get a lot of cooperation. It wasn’t til’ we reached the takeout that we began to see rises. And then, we had a tough time getting eats. I think we were all a bit tired and I was a bit bummed that we didn’t get more action. As the rower, I don’t get to fish much unless we stop that boat and that typically happens when we find rising fish. Anyway, decided to call it and head back to the cabin to make dinner and rest up.
Day 5 – MIsssouri River, Craig Montana
After making breakfast at the cabin and packing up our stuff, we were back to the fly shop to arrange the shuttle for day two on the MIssouri. We decided to float Wolf Creek to Craig, which is reasonably short, but we had the long drive back to Dillon at the end of the day, so a shorter float made sense. It was now Monday, but still reasonably crowded up at the ramp. Mel surprised me and asked if he could row, mostly so I could fish. This got me excited! Not only to fish but to have a day off of the oars. The MIssouri is a wide river with very few rocks and a very consistent current. It was perfectly suited to Mel’s rowing skills and that made me happy and confident that he could easily handle it!
The top part of the river fished a lot like the previous day, where Reid and I picked up a few fish on our nymph rigs.
The catching seemed to get slower, the closer we got to Craig. And then, as we got within eyeshot of the Craig ramp, I started to see heads. So I had Mel drop anchor nearby so we could watch. A few fish were in range of the boat, so I rigged a dry fly, one of Mel’s CDC baetis patterns as the fish were rising to BWOs. After several casts and no eats, the fish were moving further from the boat and I made the decision to get out and wade. I know I needed to be closer but also had to be in position to get a drag free drift.
Heading overboard with my trusty wading staff, I moved closer to the rises. After several casts, I saw the rise below my fly and set anyway. Turns out he had my fly afterall and I got a good hookset, and the fish was on. He was a strong fish and we were also in reasonably strong current, add to the fact that I had added a section of 5.5X tippet, and it was definitely advantage fish! He was also downstream of me and I knew I needed to get him into softer water to have a chance of landing him. Finally, I brought the very thick and fiesty 17″ brown to the net. The fact that he was a brown surprised me, as we were catching all rainbows further upstream.
Reid and I ended up chasing a few other risers but didn’t get an eat, so we wrapped things up for the day. With the boat back on the trailer, we headed back to the Angler’s Inn in Dillon and got there at a reasonable hour.
Day 6 – Big Hole River, Melrose, MT
Another nice breakfast at the cafe and we were off to the Sunrise Fly Shop in Melrose, MT. We consulted wwith the staff there on which section to float and although I enjoyed the Divide to Melrose section we floated before, I was up for something new. So on this day we decided to float downstream from Melrose to the Glen take out, which is only about 6.5 miles. The short float made sense to us as we had a long drive back to Victor that evening, as our last two nights would be spent at the cabin.
It was another day where we were hoping for a hatch and some dry fly action, but again, came up short. As on our previous float, streamers ruled the day. Mel and Reid managed a few fish on streamers, but it ended up being pretty slow for us.
The last couple of miles the river became braided. It was tricky figuring out which way to go in order to stay on the main stem. In fact, the last place the river forked sent me a chilling reminder, that I had floated this stretch of river before. About ten years ago, I floated the stretch and took the left fork by mistake and ended up going past the Glen take-out. I had to walk my boat a couple hundred yards upstream once the two forks had come back together.
It was about a 3 hour drive back to Victor from Glen and frankly we were all a bit exhausted.
Day 7 – The Teton River, Tetonia, ID
This stretch of the Teton is really becoming a favorite of ours. We typically don’t get big fish, but on a good day, we get lots of fish. Last fall, Reid had an incredible day on this stretch with a grand slam and over 20 fish. On this day, both Reid and Mel decided to fish streamers and I got to pitch them too on a few of our stops.
On this day, Mel was upfront casting streamers. There is always a big advantage to being upfront on the Teton, especially during low flow conditions, and today we were only at 225cfs. The low water makes it easy for the fish to see and more importantly, feel the boat’s presence. Mel would cast his streamer in front of the boat, make a few quick strips and recast. Getting up under bushes is second nature to Mel and Reid, thanks to all the snook fishing they do in the Everglades. Fish on the Teton like the cover, especially the bigger fish. They seek out deep holes, cut banks and the cover of an overhanging bush.
Mel above holding one of the bigger cutthroats of the day. Not giant, but a fun size fish to catch especially on a streamer, where the tug is the drug!
When we find a fishy section, the best way to fish it is to park the boat above and wade the section below. These are times when I too get to fish. Here is a nice cutthroat i caught swinging a leech through this run.
The wildlife and vistas on the Teton never get old, which is one reason why its always on our itinerary. Even when the fishing is slow, which is rare, it’s impossible to have a bad day. In fact, on this day Mel logged over 30 fish and Reid ended up close to 20. That’s quite a feat for being in the back of the boat.
That’s a Wrap!
The Epic Fishing Safari has come to a close! It was time to head back to SLC. Looking back we had such a great time! Fished new waters like the Big Hole and the Missouri, stayed in fun places like our VRBO In Craig and even the Angler Village Inn in Dillon. We had some fabulous meals and all in all good times. Better yet, no problems or issues, seven days of beautiful scenery and fabulous fishing!
For me, I was a bit disappointed in the hatches. I planned on the BWO and caddis hatches to be early, but they were earlier than expected. The big “mother’s day caddis hatch” on the Henry’s Fork happened the week before we fished it. Similarly, the same with the MIssouri and the BWO’s. They were largely done before we got there. The Big Hole, same thing. However, timing hatches is always tricky. They never seem to happen when you expect and if you are planning a trip and buyung air tickets 3 months in advance, you just have to accept what you get. Thankfully, the streamer bite was decent and made up for the lack of dry fly action.
Bottom Line: Always a great time when the Amigos get together!
